Instead of asking what to do after you've been bit, you need to be asking yourself WHY you got bit, and how you could avoid getting bitten in the future.

Because if a parrot is biting you, it means you've pushed him too far out of his comfort zone and are doing something that is unpleasant to him -- making it hard to form a bond.

This isn't about obedience and MAKING your parrot obey your orders.

This is about building a "Bond of Trust & Friendship".

And it's all based on how comfortable your parrot is in his own skin -- or put another way... how fearful he is.

In Chet Womach's Total Parrot Transformation program he talks about what is called 3 Phases of Fear, that all parrots go through.

The program conveys to you that the most HARDEST way to train a parrot to stop biting, and the FASTEST way to derail any progress you're making with him, is by pushing him too far out of his comfort zone.

You have to train your bird in what he calls the 'Fringes Of Fear'. You have to ask him to do things that are just barely uncomfortable to him. Things that bit by bit can grow your birds comfort zone in a way that never scares him.

To put it plainly, it's the difference between a father who teaches his child how to swim by carrying his kid off to the end of the dock and tossing him in the lake, and the father who cheerfully coaxes his child in the water inch by inch and shows them how fun swimming can be.

One way teaches the child to run from their father with fear and mistrust, and the other has the child excited to go play with dad again.

But back to my main point...

The reason I'm bringing all this up is because you should NEVER get bit in your training. Because if you're getting bitten you've pushed your bird outside his comfort zone, and have done some level of harm to your relationship with your bird.

Probably not very much damage, but over time, and after hundreds of encounters, these little negative interactions add up and end up destroying a birds trust in their owner.

So if I could leave you with one thought to think about today, think about how you can do a better job of "Asking" your bird to do things that can help cure his fears, and grow his self confidence WITHOUT pushing him out of his comfort zone.

A lot of people, including myself in the past have talked about how the worse thing you can do after being bitten is to leave your parrot alone.

Walking out of the room or withdrawing your hand from your parrot after he bites you teaches the parrot that if he doesn't want to be touched, the best way to NOT get touched is to bite you... because it makes you leave.

So the quick answer to your question is to immediately make him do something to show him that he can't get you to leave him alone by biting you -- he has to do it ANOTHER way.

So the next time you get bit, remain calm, do NOT yell, say "Ouch" or anything. Many birds have been trained to bite because its fun for them to see their owners make loud noises.

Instead calmly remove your hand and then cue the bird to do a trick that shows him that if he wants you to leave him alone he has to do something for you first, like the "Wave Bye Bye Trick" which is available in this Taming, Training & Tricks course.

This should snap every bird you're training out of their funky little mood of biting you and gets them to be more cooperative. As long as you aren't asking them to do things WAY outside their comfort zone.

Another thing that you can teach in this respect is how to SAY "Bye Bye" on cue. And a little trick about teaching "Bye, Bye" on cue that you might find helpful is to leave the room every time your bird says bye bye.

By training this word and then leaving the room you can train your bird to say "Bye Bye" if they want to be left alone... because they know it makes you leave the room.

This keeps you from being bitten, because you know they don't want to be touched!

If you'd like to know more about how to stop biting visit this link here.

Choosing a cage is never a simple task, you need to consider a few things before you randomly buy a cage.

Safe materials - Are safe, non-toxic materials used in the construction of my bird cage? This is one of the most important questions that you can ask. Chances are, you spent a good amount
of money to purchase your bird and therefore you do not want an inferior cage that is made with Zinc or Lead. These materials decrease the life of your bird and can cause many types of illnesses and sometimes death. They can be a health hazard to you and your feathered friends.

Bar Spacing - Why is bar spacing so important? Purchasing the wrong cage for your bird can be a bad thing. Birds that live in cages with bar spacing that is too large often find themselves getting stuck. Birds that get stuck in between the bars will not sit there and wait for help, they panic, flail, pull and yank. This behavior is extremely dangerous to you birds. Many birds have perished as a result of a poorly fit cage. Also, you don't want your birds to squeeze through the bars and play freely with everything in your house. Cages that have too large of spacing can make it easy for your bird to escape or worse, inflict injury and even death.

Cleaning - Is this cage easy to clean? Simply stated, a clean cage is a healthy bird. It is recommended that you clean the cage frequently. Cages that have a small opening and non-removable parts are some of the hardest cages to clean. Cage cleanliness is essential to the overall health of you and your bird. Cages that are left dirty promote bacteria and germs leading to illness and disease. Getting a cage that is easy to take care of will also take up less time and make your life much easier.

Features - What makes this cage better than that cage? Some cages are made for the sole purpose of showing off your bird such as Dome-top cages, while others are made to help entertain your bird such as Play-top cages. Studies have shown that a bird that is stimulated and encouraged to climb, explore and play live longer. Look closely for features like; toy hooks, vertical and horizontal bars, perches and even the feeding bowls. Choose a cage that your bird will enjoy.

Surrounding Area - Is this cage going to be placed in a corner or is it the main piece of furniture in the room? Much like you, birds need space. Choosing a cage should be much like picking a piece of furniture. Allow enough space around the cage that your bird doesn't feel shut in. A good general rule of thumb is to get the largest possible cage for your species of bird.

Cost - Does this cage fit in your budget? Some cages are so very expensive that it makes it almost impossible for you to purchase.

For more information on bird cages, you can visit this site here.

The biggest mistake a lot of people make when trying to train their parrots is that they try to train their parrot to do tricks on or inside their cage. Do NOT train your parrot on or in its cage! It is a definite no-no!

A parrot's cage is a parrot's territory, and if your parrot doesn't happen to be the nicest bird in the world, he is going to want to defend his territory instead of trying to learn what you are trying to teach him.

You will have him so preoccupied with invading his space that not only will his attention span be very short, he could get more aggressive.

If your bird is nice enough to step up onto your hand, then I recommend using a "T" perch that is located in another room for training. Make sure that the room you put the perch in is free from distractions from other birds, animals, or activity going on outside.

Setting up a perch in another room is going to help your training immensely, probably double your results, and pace, that your bird will learn.

If you have trouble getting your bird off of his cage, I think you should use a wooden dowel. This won't work every time, but many birds that won't step up onto hands, will easily step up onto a wooden dowel.

If you really require help on parrot training, I suggest you visit this site to learn more.

http://www.birdtricks.com/training_parrots.htm

For most birds who STILL have a screaming habit, BOREDOM is the main reason your bird screams. And to cure a BORED bird from screaming without trying to find a strategy that focuses on eliminating boredom is like searching for a lost ball in some VERY tall weeds...

A parrot's natural pattern of activity in the wild eliminates boredom by requiring it to search for food for up to 6-8 hours a day.

So just like you don't feel the need to be active after you've been running errands for 8 hours strait, and just want to sit on the couch and relax...

You can manufacture environments in your parrot's life that keep him so busy he'll want to spend more time relaxing too.

But to do this you need to force your parrot to actually search for his food ALL day long, and STOP making it so easy for him to get at in his food bowl.

By using types of toys that you can find online that I call "Food Finding Toys", or that are coined in the industry as "Foraging toys"...

You can set up an environment in your bird's cage that *requires* him to actively search, dig and pry for his daily food for almost the entire day. They will literally be active for as many as 6 hours a day looking for food.

And you can imagine how much less demanding a bird who's been that busy all day will be for your time and attention! The change you'll see in your bird's behavior when you make him look for ALL his food is remarkable.

In fact the evidence supporting how much this benefits your bird makes NOT doing this, border line abusive (in my opinion).

A mind is a precious thing, and a mind left to an un-enriching environment will erode... maybe even become neurotic.

It takes a little more effort on your parrot to hide your birds food, but it's worth it.

So go pick up some Food Finding Toys today and start manufacturing an exciting environment for your bird today.

Note: When choosing toys, be sure to choose those that doesn't have dies or toxic ingredients.
The following site has the safest line of toys on the market, and many of their toys have lots of space to hide food in that force a parrot to have to chew through a Coconut shell to get his pellets, or shred up multiple layers of paper to get a treat inside.

You can see the range of toys and the dangers of commercial parrot toys here:

http://www.birdtricks.com/parrot-toys/